Chef Meny Vaknin works about one hundred hours a week. You’ll see him, almost any time, in the open kitchen at Mishmish. He jockeys pots and pans on burners behind him, and delicately plates, drizzling olive oil and sprinkling salt. A skull cap, set back on his head, reveals a dark hair line and accentuates eyes that are aware, it seems, of everything. He makes eye contact with servers, smiles to his new regulars, but, still, remains calmly focused and in the zone